Still Walking….

Still walking.  We’ve put in almost 200 miles, so about 300 more to go!

We are still having a great time, with different types of views, foods, and people every day.  Today we put in another 18 miles, starting out in open fields then transitioning up a mountain into a beautiful wooded area.  Our home tonight is another quaint town, Ages.

On the trail today, we were happy to run into a family from Holland that we haven’t seen for quite a few days.  They are an older couple (in their 80’s!) and special needs son that are plugging along, taking taxis to the next town when they need.  Since we were wondering how or if they were still fairing on the Camino, it was good to see them.  However, it was not good to see them in our hostel room tonight. We know from experience that all three of them snore!  It is quite the concert they put on. I’ll push the earplugs in a little farther tonight!

We are enjoying walking with the same people for a few hours each day.  Daniel (Munich), Sophie (Australia), Tully (Vermont) and more.  We often see them in the evenings too and have enjoyed some great dinner conversations.  It’s pretty unique-an experience we will appreciate long term.  

It’s late and our roommates are already in bed!  Buen Camino!

Long days before a rest

We’ve covered some ground since our last blog post.  Yesterday was our longest day so far at 18 miles.  Most of the time we aim for 13-15 miles per day.  We are now in Logroño, and are staying two nights here to give us a day of rest.  

Although a day of rest is very welcome, we seem to be holding up pretty well at this point. Jodi has a couple toe blisters, but otherwise we are in good shape.

We continue to have a great time getting to know so many people.  We spent most of the morning walking with an older couple from New Zealand, most of the afternoon with a young couple from South Korea, and will eat out tonight with others.

The weather has been pretty hot, in the upper 80s.  But as we mentioned before, we keep telling ourselves it is much better than the hundred plus temperatures a couple of weeks ago.  

 Last blog we mentioned the heavy rain storm we hiked through. We have come to realize how major of a storm that was. It was the most rain they have had since at least 1972.  It killed at least three people and others still missing.  It was a crazy amount of rain!

 Logrono is known for their many great tapas restaurants and is in the Rioja wine region.  So needless to say, we are are happy with our rest day location!  This rest day city was thanks to the recommendation of veteran pilgrims Terry and Kay Shue, who have given us fantastic advice thus far.

Friday we have another long hike.  Ultreia y Susiea!    (Beyond and higher, to Santiago! (One translation of many)) 

Rain and Running of the Bulls

We continue to enjoy our time on the trail, generally going 13-15 miles per day.  Overall, we are feeling great.  We see lots of people with injuries, which is always a concern for us as well.  But so far, we are holding up pretty well.  It isn’t the mileage as much as the steep declines that are causing me (Eric) some foot pain.  I started some meds to try and help.

We have had some great days of hiking.  We also had a challenging one.  From Zubiri to Pamplona, which is about 13 miles, it rained all except for the first ten minutes.  It started out mild but became a full on torrential downpour that didn’t stop.  The path became a river, ankle deep at times.

Jodi did slip and fall once, but no injuries and we had a fun day anyway.  This is what we signed up for! 

When we finally got to the outskirts of Pamplona, we realized how crazy we looked to normal people (whom we haven’t seen in a while!). Tromping through a downpour as if just going on a stroll, we saw many looks of pity and “I’m so glad I’m not in your shoes.”  But mostly, we got lots of smiles and well wishes on our journey.  I broke out into laughter several times because of people‘s expressions, mixed with my elation from almost being to our day’s end.

After cleaning up and drying off, we walked through beautiful old town Pamplona on the streets where the bulls run annually in July  (STILL raining by the way), and enjoyed wonderful tapas for supper.  

Over the Pyrenees

The start of our hiking has been fantastic, though it started out in the rain.  On the first day it was off and on rain, fog, and brief moments of sunshine.  Yesterday, we woke up to clear skies, then weather was absolutely perfect as we crossed the Pyrenees with some misty forest sections and clearing valleys.  Compared to the last weeks which have been 30° hotter, we are very happy with the weather.

We made it over the Pyrenees, with wonderful views of mountains, grazing cattle, sheep, and horses. We’re not sure what the French do with the horses, but they didn’t look like riding horses . . .

The most impressive part so far has been the people in the hostels that we stay with. There is a camaraderie that we have not experienced before. Every night in the hostels before supper, we introduced ourselves, and talked about why we are going on this journey. During dinner together and afterwards, we talked personally with individuals about their reasons for walking the Camino and about their lives. We have met so many wonderful  people from so many different countries and situations.  

Now that we made it over the Pyrenees, tomorrow is mostly downhill. Granted, it is 14 miles, but again, mostly downhill. Up until now it has been just been up, up, up!

Today was Jodi’s birthday, so instead of staying at an alburgue (hostel), we stayed at a hotel and ate at the hotel restaurant. It was nothing fancy, but very nice to have space and a bathroom to ourselves for cleaning up as well as washing our clothes in the sink.

Even so, both before and after supper, we found friends that we met before and hung out with them.  Our new friends from Ireland and Australia are a ton of fun!

Off to beds now. Tomorrow is is another long day of hiking! 

Buen Camino!

It’s been a big year. I (Eric) have taken a hiatus from work since April, to spend time with the family before we sent our twins off to college.  It’s been a fantastic summer doing just that.

It culminated in us dropping our kids off at Goshen and EMU over the last two weekends.  Yes, there was a sense of loss with that.  But we also know that we have tried our best to raise great adults, now this is the next step. They are wonderful people, and now they can do wonderful things on their own.

Now for life after.

We have long planned to hike El Camino de Santiago in Spain.  It is a 500 mile pilgrimage walk that we hope to do over the next six weeks.

We spent one night in Madrid and enjoyed seeing the sites there, but were more excited to get on an early morning train to Pamplona, then shared a taxi (a small one!) with two other ladies to St.-Jean-Pied-de-Port, our starting point for the hike.

The spiraling drive took us from arid Spain over the Pyrenees mountains, into France, where it became lush forests.  Tomorrow we will reverse course and start the trek back over the mountains . . . the hard way!

We were happy to get to our starting town by lunchtime.  Although we will enjoy the Spanish food along the way, we are also happy to get as much French food as we can!  In addition to the usual great French food, we enjoyed a cream filled cake that is a regional speciality.  It may have been round rather than long, but that thing tasted like a great fancy creamstick!

As is typical for pilgrims, we are staying in an Albergue, which is similar to a hostel.  It is a very communal situation, which is part of the fun of the pilgrimage.  After we attend a blessing mass in the local 700 year old church, everyone in our albergue will get together to introduce ourselves, then eat supper together.  Our room has two sets of bunkbeds, so we will be sharing with one other couple (that hopefully doesn’t snore). The bathroom is also shared.  All that is fine, but it is a little concerning that we have to put disposable mattress covers on to help prevent spreading bedbugs!

Although that seems like tight quarters, we look forward to getting to know many other pilgrims as part of the fun and growth along the journey.

One of the first people we talked to while checking in is from Canada. She first walked the Camino 14 years ago to the day with her then, fiancé.  This year, he passed away from cancer. She is now making the trip again without him. 

There will be so many stories.

At the Pittsburgh airport with some help from Eric and Karina Yoder.

Overlooking St.-John-Pied-de-Port and the Pyrenees.

Our Albergue.